Yeah thats right its another build along fellas. DBURRIS you can sit this one out until you get your wifes permission to join in the festivities (or the doctors which ever it has come down too). Per the requests of some ive decided to do a build along on building custom arrows. Ive decided to incorporate the feather splicing into this one as well. Ive selected an arrow and the colors i want to use and decided i might as well go for it. So the idea is to create a custom spruce shaft with spliced feathers and hopefully we can get this done by the end of the weekend. The materials youll need are : *arrow shafts *feathers FULL LENGTH (trust me you are better off doing it this way than trying to line things up with precut feathers left wing feathers come in a wider variety of colors) *feather cutter *bohning fletch tape (the arrow making supply sent from the heavens) *nocks *crown dip or arrow wraps *duco cement (if using glue on nocks) *fletching jig either (right wing or left wing clamp to match you feathers) optional if using wooden shafts *sealer (i use the gasket lacquer from 3-Rivers with the dip tubes to match the lacquer) *taper tool I am using a Sitka Spruce shaft in the 55-60 spine category. Spine is simply just a measurement of the deflection that an arrow will make when force is exerted on one end of it (i.e. the bow string being released) There are a million variables that will effect spine so a good rule of thumb is to remember a center cut bow will be able to shoot arrows in the spine weight above your draw. IF you draw weight is 68 pounds you can shoot 70-75 or even 75-80 pound spine weight depending on the broadhead you plan on using. The shorter you cut a shaft the stiffer the spine gets and the more weight you add up front (broadhead) the weaker your spine weight will get. Thats about as short and sweet as I can make it without getting into too many details. My bow is a 59# center cut recurve so this spine weight will work out well with a 145 grain broadhead and the arrow cut to 29.75 inches. I know that because ive been doing this for way too long and made way too many arrows trying to figure that out. Alright so the shafting material. You can use whatever you want to really. Aluminum, carbon, cedar, spruce, birch, silverwood, ramin wood (dowels), basically anything you can turn into a dowel shape you can use. I selected spruce because its a little lighther in weight than cedar but its easier to keep straight and a little more durable than cedar. (That and i had it laying around to use) Once you have it selected you need to make sure the shaft is straight. The old pool cue trick by laying it on the table and rolling it will work great. Once you have identified the problem area you can simply correct the direction of the bend with a bend of your own using your palm against the high side and your other hand to flex the shaft around your palm. Dont get all hercules on us or youll snap it in half. A little bit at a time please. Alright its straight. Now its time to lay the plan into action..