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Wing Recurves

Discussion in 'Indiana Bowhunting' started by crookedlake92, Dec 30, 2006.

  1. I know there are few guys out there who can give me some pointers. I have two Wing recurves, a Red Wing Pro Slim Line 50# (made in 1971)and a Red Wing #55 (made in 1961). The Slim Line has a slight twist in the Limbs from the previous owner leaving it strung for a long time, while Custom is in perfect shape other than the bow had been camoflauged with paint. I can hit pretty good with both of them, but lack that little bit of aim that would allow me to hunt with one. Any pointers on practice, aiming(instinctive), and straightening out those limbs? Any advice would be much appreciated!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 30, 2006
  2. For the straightening of the limbs its best to send that off to a bowyer to get done... It can get tricky... I would contact 3riversarchery and talk to Dale Karch. He is the owner and the one that straightens limbs as a service. I think its something like 60 bucks a limb to have them straightened. Its worth it though.

    As for the aiming and or shooting better kind of thing. Its a matter of form. I have a DVD that i can send you when i get it back from Ed. He has just recently converted and watched the video and i think it will be in the mail next week. If you want i can mail the DVD to you on one condition that I get it back. ITs very informative and goes over several different techniques. Let me know if you think you want to watch it.

    I know compounds allow a guy a certain amount of room for error, but when everything is manual there isnt much room for error in anything from the anchor, release, follow through. ITs all gotta be the same everytime.
    Here are few tips i can give you right off the bat.
    1.)Hold the string actually in the first groove of your fingers dont hold it on the tips, you get much more stability and your hands are actually stronger in this setup than on the finger tips.
    2.)When you anchor pick a distinctive part of your mouth or face that your middle finger hits everytime you draw your bow, when you hit that anchor hold it for a split second that way you know for sure you are there. While holding the anchor dont let your fingers get straightened out by the tension of the string keep them good and solid with the string solidly in the groove of your fingers.
    3) You want to keep your draw arm and the arrow all on the same plane which simply means that your elbow is in a straight line with your wrist and the point of the arrow. Its easier to maintain a good release when using this form.
    4.) When you do release pull through the string a bit. Dont try to dead hand it and just let your fingers go limp. Its way to easy to pluck the string that way (pulling off too the side of the string creating torque in the arrow upon release) Subconciously pull your hand straight back away from the string as your fingers loosen their tense grip on the string and youll get a good release
    5.) This may be the most important. Hold that form until he arrow hits the target. Its all about the follow through.

    Practice makes perfect... Start close and work away from the target. By close I mean 5 yards or less. Do 15 shots of pure form.. Who cares where your arrows go just hit the target and do form work. Then back it up to 15 and shoot ten arrows or so. Then back up to 25 and shoot about 10 arrows. WHen you think you are done practicing... If you have the room... Back it up to 50+ yards and launch a few working on your form. This will show you exactly what you are doing wrong every single time. If you are torquing the string youll get right and left.. IF you arent following through or creeping off your anchor on release youll fall short or hit high. At 50+ yards being within 6 inches or so of your intended target is a good shot. Remember this isnt a compound a 4 inch group at 25 yards is good.
    Another big thing to think about is how many arrows you shoot each round. I only practice with 3 or 4 arrows. If you shoot many more than that you are getting tired and creating bad from by compensating.
    PM me if you want that DVD. Good luck and if you ever want to get together and shoot just shoot me a line... Im always willing to shoot bows. Dustin
     

  3. Thanks Dustin. I shot a recurve for a while since they my dad's hand me downs. I pretty much forgot everything I knew. I've been shooting for a couple of weeks, although I still hunt with my compound it'd be nice to use a recurve too. I'm gonna try your advice and if that doesn't work, I'll borrow your dvd. It's pretty cool, andthese are two sweet bows. I think I'll definitely shoot alot before I let anyone watch.... as not to embarrass myself. What kind of arrows do you shoot. All of the arrows (cedar) that I had are trashed, and I've been using the same ones I shoot out of my Browning. Pretty big arrows (2413), that might make a little difference. Anyhow thanks for the advice, I'll definitely be talking to you. Thanks- Jeff
     
  4. Arrows for the Recurve

    I shoot small aluminum arrows that 55 pound bow you are shooting will shoot gamgetter 2016's perfectly. Arrow flight will increase accuracy obviously. IF you want some arrows made give me a PM and ill get you a quote on a price. Talk with you later...

    Another bit of advice i can give you is.. when season is over put the compound away and dont shoot it. IF you really want to get proficient with a recurve you have to stop the compound use. Its extremely hard to toggle back and forth between the two. So if you are serious dedicate yourself to the recurve and let the compound collect dust for a while. IF it doesnt work out then how hard is it to shoot the compound again and get ready with it. Heck you could do that in a week before season if you wanted too. Good LUck and keep asking questions if you need any other help.
     
  5. I found that visually picking a distinct spot on the target and concentrating solely on that spot through the whole process of drawing the bow, anchoring, and releasing is the whole key to accuracy. Of course this is after you have practiced your form through and through. It is amazing how you can concentrate on that spot and as long as everything else is in check you will be accurate. But what do I know I am a Hill Jack from Brown County!
     
  6. Rut what kind of a bow do you shoot?
    Just curious I like hearing all the different types of trad bows out there. I have a few of them three ar custom the other is a great plains one piece recurve its a 58 at 29 with bacote riser and limb laminations. Id rather shoot a takedown though thats why i have so many customs.
     
  7. I actually have an old Ben Pearson I picked up a few years ago. I did a crappy camo paint job on it. The limbs are straight and it shoots really well. It is 60 inches long and has a 45 lb. draw @ 29 inches. I get about 3 more inches past 29 which I figured 3 lbs. an inch roughly. I was cursed being 6'4" and long arms. This bow is a one piece. I limit myself to about 25 yards on it. Thats just my comfort range.
     
  8. You have had some good advice given to you.One thing I might add is this.Try shootng after dark with a candle as your target.Make sure you have a good backstop and shoot from10 to 30 yards.This will force you to shoot pure instinct instead of gap shooting with the arrow.
     
  9. Mr Buckfly
    Very good advice. I think that goes back to the concentration thing it makes you pick a single spot. THe first deer of the year I always see the whole deer and never pick a spot. I always shoot over its back for some damn reason. The last three seasons ive had a doe at about 20 yards for the first shot of the year and everytime I zip one right over her back. The windage is perfect the elevation well i screw that up everytime.

    Buck what kind of bow do you shoot...
     
  10. Hi Dustin
    I shoot several different stick bows but my favorite is a Martin Super Diablo that draws 60 pound at 28 inches.I shoot Ceadar Shafts tipped with Zwicky broadheads out of all my bows.You are right about picking a spot being the most important part of shooting a stickbow instinctively.It takes a lot of practice to learn this trait.
     
  11. what other kind of bows are you sporting over there. You say you shoot all kinds lets get the list. Take care..
     
  12. I am not sure everyone else wants to hear about what bows I own.LOL Send me an email(mrbuckfly@aol.com)and I will get back to you.
     
  13. Trdtnlbwhntr - What's the name of the DVD you have to help improve shooting? I've got some recurves as well that I shoot occasionally and I'd really like to hunt with one. Thanks for the info!

    P.S. I have a Check-Mate Hunter, an early 70's Bear Kodiak Hunter, and a late 60's (I think) Howatt Coronado.
     
  14. Ill bet that chekmate hunter is a sweet one. Ive heard really great things about those bows but never have got the chance to shoot one. If you ever want to get rid of it... Id be interested.

    The name of the video is Masters of the Barebow. There are about a bazillion other how to shoot better videos out there and ive watched a bunch of them.. Pretty much everyone that 3Rivers sells. This is the best. IT gives a ton of how to and setup related answers and shows actual shots and results. If you are interested in getting a copy let me know. Ill get one over that way as soon as possible. Like i mentioned earlier i have no problem loaning it out i would just like it back thats all.
     
  15. Thanks for the info. I'm going to order a copy from 3Rivers. Thanks for offering to loan yours out, but I want one for myself so I can watch it occasionally in case I have more questions down the road.

    My Check-Mate does shoot really sweet. It's 49#@28" and can really zip an arrow. I don't see myself getting rid of it any time soon, but if I do I'll let you know. Last year I sold my longbow that I used to take my first traditional deer with and I've been kicking myself ever since!